The Technique of FURNITURE MAKING

STRIKING OR DRIVING TOOLS

Hammers and mallets

Figure 72:1 shows the ash handled Warrington or joiner’s pattern hammer with cross pein for starting nails, etc., 72:2 the heavy claw-hammer with split claw for drawing nails, and 72:3 the light pattern-maker’s pin- or telephone-hammer; while the upholsterer’s hammer, which can also be obtained in magnetic form, is shown in 72:4. An average weight for the joiner's hammer would be either 10 or 12 oz (340 g) head, and 4 oz (113 g) head for the pin-hammer. The carpenter’s mallet is shown in 72:5, and a useful size would be with head out of a 5 in (127 mm) by 31/2 in (89 mm) by 2 1/2 in (63 mm) thick beech block, and l3/8 in (35 mm) by 3/4 in (19 mm) handle 13 in (330 mm) long overall. The handle is not glued but fractionally tapered, as shown, so that the head cannot fly off. Figure 72:6 shows the carver’s mallet, useful for light chopping, and turned out of a 4 in (101 mm) square beech block 7 in (178 mm) long, leaving 3 in (76 mm) for the mallet head and about 4 in (102 mm) for the 7/8 in (22 mm) diameter handle. Alternatively, the handle can be turned separately, taken through the head and glued and wedged.

Nail sets are shown in 72:9, type (A) for punching in larger nails, and the pin-punch (B) for small veneer-pins. Type (C) shows the centre-punch, useful for marking centres when using twist-drills, etc. The square-headed types of nail set give a greater striking surface, and are not so inclined to boss over with repeated use.

Hammer faces should always be kept clean and polished on a waste scrap of abrasive paper, otherwise they tend to bend the nails over, while the downward stroke should be directed with a slight pushing action away from the body. Screwdrivers should be cross ground to fit the screw-slot and not merely bevelled at the tip.

Screwdrivers

On the production line, most screws are driven home either by pump or by powered screwdrivers, but for quality work, where one slip with a pump screw driver could be ruinous, the traditional screwdriver still has a large part to play. One should have several to fit the various screws commonly used, i. e. nos. 4 to 8 and no. 12.

All too frequently screwdrivers are dismissed

75 Japanese handsaws. (By courtesy of Roger's Tools, Hitchin, Herts.)

76 Detail of the precision made teeth of a Japanese tenon and dovetail saw. (By courtesy of Roger's Tools, Hitchin, Herts.)

as unimportant tools, but they do need to be of good quality and precision ground to fit the screws accurately. If they are not, chewed up screw-heads will mar the final piece of work.

The standard cabinet-screwdriver is shown in 72:7 and this is usually the best pattern for general work; and a useful dumpy-screwdriver with loose toggle-bar for working in confined spaces in 72:8.

JAPANESE HAND TOOLS

Since 1975 there has been a growing interest in the West in traditional Japanese hand tools. These are quite distinct from and not to be confused with the cheap reproductions of European patterns that are exported by both Japan and Taiwan.

Japan has a long tradition of working in wood, predominantly in its traditional housing, and its craftsmen have become masters in joinery construction. However, unlike their Western counterparts, they do not have a history of working at a bench in hardwoods, but on the floor, and mainly in clean, straight - grained cedar (hinoki) that cuts like cheese. This simple fact has affected the design of their tools over many centuries and thus, while we cannot fault the quality or the steel of Japanese tools, it has to be said that not all of them suit the Western way of working.

However, there are no such doubts about their inexpensive water stones which are excellent, and many craftsmen in the West now use at least some Japanese tools in their work, with chisels and handsaws being the most popular.