The Technique of FURNITURE MAKING

SQUARING EDGES

Immediately after the face surface is true, the leading or best edge should be trued straight in its length and at right angles to the face, checking carefully with the try-square all along the length; it is then known as the 'trued' or face

edge and is marked accordingly. This is, perhaps, the most difficult of all planing opera­tions, for while it is comparatively easy to plane a straight edge with a long try-plane, always remembering that pressure is applied at the front of the plane at the start of the stroke and gradually transferred to the back as the plane moves forward, it is much more difficult to keep the edge truly square to the face. If there is a tendency to form a bevelled edge, no attempt should be made to correct it by tilting the sole of the plane, but the cutting iron should be slid over to the high side with the fingers under the sole to form a guide (130) and the high edge taken down until the final shaving covers the entire width. However, should the tendency to bevel over still persist then the cutting iron should be examined for tilt, the bench top checked for general levelness with the floor, with the vice square to the bench-top and, therefore, truly vertical. The worker's own stance should also be checked, for the ability to plane a square edge must be mastered for accurate work and every effort made to achieve it.

Edging thin boards

If the edges are too thin to support the sole of the plane adequately then the shooting-board should be used. If it is too long for the board, the board should be cramped/clamped to the bench-top with a wood strip under to form its own shooting-board, and the plane slid along on its side; but the bench-top itself must be perfectly flat.