The Technique of FURNITURE MAKING
MITRE TOOLS
Figure 45:1 shows the fixed mitre-square for' laying out true mitres, 45:2 the combined square and mitre-template, 45:3 a brass mitre-template for stuck mouldings, and 45:4 a wooden version cut out of a 5 in (127 mm) by 11/2 in (38 mm) square block of close-grained hardwood. Uses for these tools are described under the appropriate chapters on framed and mitred work, etc. A mitre sawing-box is shown in 45:5 which requires no description; it can be bought or very simply made. For the most accurate sawing of squares and mitres a mitre-saw is recommended which can be set at any angle by a quick-release finger-grip. Figure 45:4 illustrates the mitre-trimmer, extensively used by picture-framers but an invaluable tool in any workshop. Figure 45:6 shows a mitre shooting - board for flat material, approximately the same size as the straight shooting-board, for use where the mitre cut is across the width as in picture-frames, flat mouldings, etc. This board cannot be used for mitres in the thickness, and 45:7 shows the mitre shooting-block with wood or metal screw which will accommodate small box sides, plinth and heavy cornice mouldings,
|
|
|
|
|
|
3 і
|
|
|
2 |
|
ЗГ- |
|
|
60
6
14"
46 Handsaws: rip and crosscut
etc. The screw actuates a sliding chop or jaw (45:7A), with a fixed jaw (45:7B). The sliding jaw is retained in position by a crosspiece screwed to the prongs of the jaw under the frame, and tight enough to ensure an easy but positive slide. Both jaws should be either heavily waxed or covered with a renewable surface material, stiff cardboard, etc., to take the wear of the plane-iron, and if the back faces of the jaws are truly square the block can be used for squaring ends. The traditional donkey’s-ear shooting-board for mitring in the thickness is illustrated in 45:8A, and an alternative form in 45:8B.
