The Technique of FURNITURE MAKING

Gate-leg tables

These superseded the draw-leaf type in the sixteenth century, but their popularity has greatly declined in recent years. They are a useful form for small rooms, and a wide range of tops can be attached—square, rectangular, circular, elliptical, D ended, serpentine, etc.— but the additional legs of the gates are somewhat inconvenient for sitters. The principles of construction are simple: the tops can be double and folded over, or fall leaf and lifted up, to be supported by a swing gate or gates pivoted to the main framing. These gates can be single (377:1, 2), double, which is more usual (377:3), twin for large leaves (377:4), while a semicircular side-table with double top and single gate is shown in 377:5. Figure 377:6 shows the basic framework with gate open, 377:7 an elevation of a typical elliptical top table with turned legs, and 377:8 a top and bottom plan. From these drawings it will be seen that the side framing rails must be wide or locally increased in width to receive the pivots of the gate framing (377:6, 8), and also where the gate leg is notched over (377:13). The rails of the gates can be relieved slightly (377:7A) to prevent them grinding on the table rails as they are pushed home. The actual pivots can be thick hardwood dowels, 3/8 in (9.5 mm) iron rod or brass tube, etc. with the bottom pivot kept short and tipped on, and the upper pivot taken through the top rail and tapped home after assembly (377:12). A little candle grease rubbed over the dowels or rods will prevent squeaking and the sockets should be an easy but not slack fit. Figure 377:10 shows the bottom end rail set in for knee-room, and 377:9 the small stops screwed to the underside of the tops to limit the travel of the gates, while 377:14 is an end-fixing card-table hinge for square-edge double tops, 377:15 is a back-flap hinge for square-edge fall-leaf tops, and 377:16 the moulded rule joint often used. The top ovolo moulding can be carried round the perimeter of the table, and this was usually done in typical examples (377:7). The legs of the gates can be shortened fractionally to accommodate metal gliders (377:11) for easier sliding over hard floor-coverings.

Pembroke tables

Figure 378 is an isometric sketch of a Pembroke table with fall flaps on the long sides, the support brackets (either one long one or two short ones according to the size of the flap) knuckle or finger jointed as described. One or two end drawers were provided in old examples, and if only one long drawer was fitted then the other end was treated as a dummy drawer front complete with ring or knob handle. The flaps were either square edge on butt-type hinges, or with table hinges and rule joints as for the sofa-table (379). Average sizes of traditional examples were about 39 in (99 cm) long, 19 in (48 cm) wide, with 10 in (25 mm) flaps either side, and a 21/2 in (6.5 cm) deep drawer, but the measurements can be varied within wide limits.

Finger joint and knuckle joint Swing legs for card and occasional tables, etc. were hinged to the underframing by either the finger or knuckle joint, and while they have been largely superseded by metal fittings, there is no doubt that a pivoted wood joint correctly made will give good, if not better, service over a period of years. Figure 380 shows the finger joint, which is simpler to cut as all the work can be done with saw and chisel, with A as the fixed part screwed to the table framing and B the moving part or wing. The notches are cut at an angle of 45°, both parts secured with a central metal pin, the moving part (B) opened out in stages, and the rounding gradually chiselled away. Figure' 388:1, 2 is the knuckle joint of more refined appearance, and here again A is fixed and B free to move through 180° if necessary. The circles

and diagonals are laid out as in 388:2, saw cuts run in at the necks (X), the shapes worked and the shoulders cut. The knuckles are then laid out, usually five or more in number, and allowing two projecting knuckles in the fixed piece A and three in B. Sawing-in must be done on the waste side shown unshaded in the inset drawing (388:3), the unwanted knuckles sawn out, and the interiors hollowed with a scribing - gouge to take the swing of the opposing protruding knuckle. When the two parts can be fitted, waste pieces are cramped/clamped on either side to keep them together with a sash - cramp across the length to pull them tight, after which they can be bored through either end in the exact centre for a suitable metal pin, which can be 3/16 in (4.5 mm) steel rod or a large french nail. The joint can be lubricated with candle grease and should be reasonably tight but smooth in action. The stopping angle of the wing can be adjusted by altering the angle of the diagonal shoulders, and a good medium hardwood should be used, preferably not beech which is very prone to worm, with 7/8 in (22 mm) finished thickness for light brackets in Pembroke-type tables, etc., and 11/8 in (28.5 mm) for heavier swing legs.