The Technique of FURNITURE MAKING

COUNTER FLAP AND CARD-TABLE HINGES

Counter flaps which lift up and over need hinges without projecting knuckles, and 256:5 shows a common type with double pin and connecting link let in flush. The same principle is applied to card-table hinges, either top face fixing (256:3) or edge fixing (256:4), both of which allow the table-leaf to move through 180°. As the hinges are handmade and vary slightly in dimension, each hinge must be gauged for separately.

CENTRE AND PIVOT HINGES

Centre hinges either straight (256:9) or necked (256:10) have one loose plate with steel pivot pin and raised seating for clearance, and the other with socket hole for the pin. Figure 256:11 shows the necked pivot hinge in light steel strip. The name centre hinge is usually reserved for the original hand-wrought cast brass hinge, still obtainable, but all too often of appalling quality and finish as compared with earlier examples; while machine-stamped hinges with either fixed or loose plates and generally of good quality are commonly referred to as pivot hinges. As the action is the same throughout, subsequent descriptions will refer to both types as pivot hinges.

Attaching pivot hinges

Straight pivot hinges are used where the centre lies within the wood thickness (259:1), necked or cranked hinges where it is necessary to throw the door clear of the carcass (259:5), or through an angle of 270° as in the fold-back doors for television cabinets, etc. Various applications are also shown which are self-explanatory. In fitting these hinges a working drawing should be made to determine the exact position of the pivot (259:2). It is a matter of choice which part of the hinge, pin or socket is fitted to the door, but in practice it is easier to attach a pivot plate to the bottom of the carcass and the other pivot plate to the top of the door. All the recesses are first cut, the bottom pivot plate and socket plate screwed in position, the top socket plate screwed to the carcass, the door tipped on the bottom plate, the top pivot plate placed on its socket plate and the door head slid on and attached. It is evident that the recess for the top door plate must be carried out to the edge of the stile to allow the hinge to be slid on (259:1). Recesses for necked hinges are cut round the hinge (259:5), whose shape usually permits a swivel entry, but it is advisable to check this before assembly, and if the hinge plate will not slide easily into the cranked recess then part of the plate should be filed away rather than cutting out the recess and leaving too little wood substance. If the gap left for the passage of a straight plate would be visible—although it is normally hidden—then the attaching procedure can be reversed or the gap filled in with a glued strip (259:1). These hinges are sold in pairs. right and left hand, and are not suitable for tall wardrobe doors which usually require a third centrally placed hinge to keep them from

bowing. They can be used for fall flaps (Chapter 25) in which case the socket plates are screwed to the carcass sides, the pin plates placed in the sockets and the flap slid on in the horizontal position.