Sash-bar assembly

Two methods are available. In the simpler the ribs are merely butted together between the framing rebates, and the joints strengthened with glued canvas in the same manner as the strengthening of a crossover (232). The better method is to joint the ribs as already described, and stub tenon them about 1/8 in (3 mm) deep into the framing (231:1, 2). Curved ribs can be simply formed by pressing three or more thick veneers between sawn formers or forms (231:3), and the face mouldings worked on a wide board (231:4). The mitre cuts can be made with the help of a wooden template (231:5), with a waste piece inserted into the groove as a


support. Assembly is made on a board (231:6) on which the layout is accurately drawn. The ribs are cut, dry jointed and kept in position with blocks nailed to the baseboard; the door­frame is then placed over the assembly, the shoulders of the tenons marked and the position of the mortises in the rebates/rabbets also gauged. The rib assembly can then be glued together (reinforcing with glued canvas if necessary, as shown in 232), for it will spring sufficiently to enter the mortises, the door­frame is replaced on top and the mitre cuts marked, and then sawn in with a small allowance for final trimming. The rib assembly can then be glued in its final position in the frame and the face mouldings trimmed and glued to the ribs. When complete the glass panes are cut with a slight clearance all round and beaded or puttied in.

If the finished work is to be gloss polished the face mouldings are often polished in the length before they are cut, but this calls for clean and accurate working.

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